In a tailoring collection, particularly one from a brand with history, there is always a fine balance between innovation of new products, and interpretation of existing. This weight of heritage is something E.Tautz bears –although not as a burden, but much like a Knight wearing his armour; purposefully, boldly and without compromise.
The Autumn Winter 2012 collection from E.Tautz collection embodied the 130 year ‘Hunting and Military’ background with references to original British cloths and construction. Heavy scotch plaid, soft-shouldered hunting coats were combined with a more comfortable silhouettes which, although clean in design, exuded a functional air, one of comfort.
The suiting was textured and layered with the emphasis on the weight of cloth. The peaks on the lapels were muted, framed with a raised ‘saddle’ finishing to the shoulder lending itself to a strong visage.
“There is an imponderable vastness to weight” wrote Richard Serra, an inspiration and the source of Patrick Grant’s fixation with dense absorbent forms and interpretation in clothes mass.
“British cloth makers have a way of creating cloths of a substance that few can match, because of our weather required them to do so. Serra’s drawings somehow called to mind these heavy British cloths: Cavalry Twill, Melton, Barathea.” – Patrick Grant
The weight of the garments were reflected through the soft, almost unending, shoulders of the coats often with concealed buttons; the continuity of the cloth adding to their intensity of purpose.
The statement colour through the collection is ‘hunting’ red, providing a stark contrast to the conservative palette. Seen in scotch plaid, wool coats, their linings as well as jacket trimmings, the red pays tribute E.Tautz’s weighty hunting heritage.