In 2006 Geza Schoen, a Berlin-based perfumer with a long track record in the fragrance industry, set himself a challenge to make a deliberately provocative comment on the way fragrance is made and marketed today.
Thus he created and launched two brand new scents simultaneously. Fragrances based on a single core ingredient at a concentration unheard of in traditional perfumery. The magic ingredients, either the ‘aroma chemical’ Iso E Super (a chemical often found in floor cleaner) or Ambrosian (artificial ambergris), are used with a potency that makes this less a fragrance and more a clinical dose.
The complex-sounding concept is fairly simple in practice. The aroma-molecule in which the original pair of fragrances are based on is Iso E Super. Eccentric 01 uses Iso E Super in an unknown concentration together with other ingredients, including pink pepper, lime-peel and orris incense. Whereas Escentric 02 uses a purer version of the aroma-molecule , with the scent being derived by the bodies natural odour, an effect more like pheromones.
The secret of its success is ultimately this: the relationship between each of the paired fragrances creates an effect that is intangible, enticing, sensual and – most important – as individual as anyone could want their fragrance to be in an age of big designer-branded homogeneity.
Schoen wanted to, when he created Escentric Molecules, was bring the focus back to the substance of perfumery, in an industry which often puts more emphasis on the style. The irony is, of course, that in setting out to dispel myth, Escentric Molecules has actually created a whole new mystique itself.