Monsieur by Bruno Jovanovic for Frédéric Malle
Since Editions de Parfums was launched by Frédéric Malle in 2000- the collection has grown quickly, albeit carefully. The focus is on quality with such favourites of ours as Noir Epices and Carnal Flower.
For 2016 we see Bruno Jovanovic’s introductory fragrance; Monsieur. Jovanovic has taken on the symbol of classic perfumery, patchouli, an emblematic material for many perfumers. Monsieur contains a unique dosage of over 50% patchouli, obtained by molecular distillation.
The result is an initial tangerine note conveying a particular freshness, mingled with rum absolute, and the sea of patchouli which lies at the heart of the perfume. A substantial measure of cedar and of incense alongside modern amber make up the base. There are also subtle hints of vanilla and musk to tie everything together and soften the sharpness.
Patchouli is a tricky ingredient to master within fragrance, and it’s not to everyone’s nasal pallette. Indeed, no perfumer had dared use patchouli in such a pure form since the 70’s.
The fragrance is aimed at gentlemen who represent a manly and timeless elegance, think; Alfonso de Portago,
Mark Birley, Jose-Luis de Villalonga or Gianni Agnelli- it’s destined to become an instant neo-classic, far from fleeting fashions.
From £120 at 14, Burlington Arcade, London W1 and fredericmalle.com (5oml EDP).