Why Raw Denim?

A pair of jeans is a pair of jeans, right? Wrong. And you don’t to be a denimhead to reach that conclusion: while the construction may be much the same from one pair to the next – give or take differences in thread standards and strength, cotton being traditional, a polycotton being much more durable – the real distinction lies in the fabric. And there’s no other way of saying it: American and Japanese denims are the best. It takes wearing a pair made of the “blue gold” to know it, and this can be an arduous process, given that raw denim requires some heavy wearing before it softens and starts to mould to your body shape. But experience is hard to argue with.

Does that make a stiff, dark denim the only choice? It’s a personal preference. Part of the pleasure of jeans is in making them yours; the shape and fades they develop are a unique product of your lifestyle. They reflect where you stow your wallet, whether you ride a bike, how many squats you do each morning, and the like. The best jeans in your wardrobe will always tend to be those you’ve worn the most. But some people (and life is short) don’t want to wait. It’s for these that the many kinds of washes – little more than treatments that advance the aging process – have been developed over the years: stone-washing (so-called because it literally washes the jeans with ground pumice), snow-washing (using acids) and the like.

Japanese Selvedge and Raw Denim manufacture at Hawksmill Denim Co

But as for heavy pre-distressing – the artfully placed rips and worn patches, artfully placed in identical spots on a thousand pairs, that is – this is best avoided. For one, artificial fading processes have largely been environmentally bad news, not to mention detrimental to the health of the people employed to do the work; that’s why they’re using lasers to achieve the same finish these days. And for two, it just looks terrible. Some distressing is done convincingly. Most of it is not – putting fades and rips where they would never occur through actual wear, for example.

How your jeans fit, of course, is a matter of preference but arguably it follows the same philosophy: avoid the extremes. Yes, baggy styles are trending in men’s fashion, but look back to the Madchester years or early 1990s hip-hop to see how that worked out. And, yes, you can find skin-tight styles – the type beloved by men who typically also opt for T-shirts with extremely deep V-necks. But neither of these extremes tend to be that versatile. Indeed, there’s a good reason why Levi’s 501 cut (either the 1944 or the 1947 version) has been the most widely copied in jeans-making history: because its medium-rise, straight-leg silhouette works with just about everything. It’s sufficiently loose to look the part with sneakers and a sweatshirt; sufficiently trim to look the part with loafers and an Oxford button-down shirt.

That conceded, your choice is then down to the plethora of tiny details that make one pair speak to you when another almost-but-not-quite-the-same pair doesn’t: the colour of the stitching thread or the selvedge trim; the artwork on the leather patch; the type of buttons; the shape and size of the back pockets; the design of the arcuate (the brand-specific decorative stitching over those back pockets); and so on.

Don’t know where to start? Try the brands below – each of which is renowned for its raw denim jeans.

7 Of The Best Raw Denim Brands

A.P.C.

A.P.C. Petit New Standard Skinny-Fit Dry Selvedge Denim Jeans
A.P.C. Petit New Standard Skinny-Fit Dry Selvedge Denim Jeans £145 >

Founded in 1987, Paris-based A.P.C. (“Atelier de Production et de Création”) is the king of easy-to-wear wardrobe staples. The brand hand-picks the best Japanese selvedge denim for its widely-loved Petit New Standard jeans, which features unfussy, classic detailing in an easy-to-wear skinny fit (don’t worry, they are more slim than skinny).

Acne Studios

Acne Studios 1996 Rigid Denim Jeans
Acne Studios 1996 Rigid Denim Jeans £210 >

Founded in 1997 by Jonny Johansson, Acne Studios (“Ambition to Create Novel Expressions”) offers high-end denim in rich colours with premium metal hardware. Its “1996 Rigid” jeans are cut for comfort with a roomy straight-leg fit from raw denim that’ll age and break in nicely over time.

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers

Blackhorse Lane E8 Slim Tapered Indigo Selvedge Jeans
Blackhorse Lane E8 Slim Tapered Indigo Selvedge Jeans £240 >

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers make and sell high-quality ready-to-wear selvedge and organic raw denim jeans from its base in London. The company’s focus on sustainability, community and unmatched quality is driven by founder Bilgehan “Han” Ates’ 25 years of experience in the textile industry.

The brand’s E8 Slim Tapered Indigo Raw Selvedge is a premium jean with a slim modern fit, made with 14oz indigo raw denim woven in Japan by the renowned Kurabo Mill. A host of classic features and detailing make this a strong choice.

Edwin

Edwin ED-71 Slim Straight Jean in Unwashed Red Selvedge
Edwin ED-71 Slim Straight Jean in Unwashed Red Selvedge Black £119 >

Edwin was established in Japan by a one Mr Tsunemi during 1947. His motivation: a strong passion for denim, and a desire to import jeans directly from the United States as there was no denim manufactured in Japan at the time. It wasn’t until 1961 that Edwin began manufacturing its own denim. Today, the brand blends its Japanese heritage and dedication to craftsmanship with a contemporary European twist.

Edwin’s ED-71 Slim Straight Jean is Ape’s pick. Coming in unwashed raw denim in a deep shade of black, they feature red selvedge detailing, a button fly, five pockets and are trimmed with a branded leather patch at the rear.

Levi’s

Levi's Vintage Clothing 1947 501 Jeans in Dark Indigo
Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1947 501 Jeans in Dark Indigo £180 >

Where it all began. Levi Strauss’ iconic brand pioneered jeans in 1873, setting the standard with its signature “501” style. Unrivalled branding coupled with first-class quality and construction make Levi’s an inevitable pick, even today.

The label’s 1947 501 was the jean of a new generation after World War II, when raw materials became available again, and Levi Strauss & Co. leapt back into heavy production to meet growing demand. The present day 501 features a slimmer fit and no extraneous details like the cinch or suspender buttons, but does boast watch pocket rivets and selvedge denim from Cone Mills of North Carolina – a Levi’s brand partner for over 100 years.

Nudie

Nudie Grim Tim Slim-Fit Organic Stretch-Denim Jeans
Nudie Grim Tim Slim-Fit Organic Stretch-Denim Jeans £100 >

Nudie Jeans is based in Gothenburg, Sweden and has specialised in premium denim since it was founded in 2001. High-quality craftsmanship, a focus on sustainability and ethical production methods, and affordability make this well-known denim brand ever popular. A variety of fits, styles and sizes means there’s a pair to suit every guy.

These “Grim Tim” jeans are crafted in Italy from organic dry denim, which will soften up and break in over time. A slim cut presents a tidy aesthetic whilst a hint of stretch ensures day-long comfort.

Rag & Bone

Rag & Bone Fit 2 Slim-Fit Raw Selvedge Denim Jeans
Rag & Bone Fit 2 Slim-Fit Raw Selvedge Denim Jeans £140 >

Fronted by Marcus Wainwright, Rag & Bone is renowned for its high-quality, super-cool denim designs, which are inspired by traditional workwear and tailoring.

The label’s Fit 2 Slim-Fit Raw Selvedge Denim Jeans are manufactured from premium 10oz raw selvedge, designed to soften and develop a personal fit and feel with wear. A comfortable mid-rise cut means they can be worn for smart or casual occasions.

Caring For Raw Denim

For the true denimhead, much of the concern comes not in choosing a pair of jeans, but tending to their picky needs afterwards. Even the way your denim is cared for – and you thought the whole point of denim was that it was meant to be virtually indestructible – is for some a matter for concern. Hunt around and you can even find specialist detergents with which to wash your jeans – good old Daz being insufficient to the task. Or, more specifically, likely to wash the life right out of your jeans: indigo is a natural dye and fades quite quickly so run-of-the-mill detergents will just fade them all over in one hit. Some even turn to dry-cleaning in a bid to retain that initial rich dark denim shade. Don’t do this: the chemicals will eventually destroy the cloth.

Of course, discussions about washing denim may be moot to most denimheads because they don’t wash denim, or at least only reluctantly. So-called “dry” denim – that’s the deep-shaded, stiff variety that untreated jeans are made from – should, they say, be worn for as long as possible before receiving their first wash. And by as long as possible they mean around six months. This allows for the maximum personalisation, from creasing to natural fading, of the denim’s fabrication and for the indigo dye to be “locked in” first. For the same reason they recommend that no attempt is made to clean local spots during this time: it simply creates a bigger, more distinctive patch that can last for years of wear.

But there is the matter of hygiene to consider. Again, there are sprays available to kill the bacteria. Others suggest hanging your jeans out on the line for a few days in bright sunlight – sunshine being the best disinfectant, as the saying goes, as well as helping to age your jeans faster, if that’s what you want. Others still recommend wearing them for a dip in the sea, the salts having a similar effect. But these methods are only really of use during the warmer months, and they’re all only putting off the inevitable.

Denim at the famous Cone Mills Corporation. Once a world leader in textile manufacturing of denim and other cotton fabrics for most of the 20th century. The company was based in Greensboro, North Carolina and its mills were mostly in North and South Carolina.

Certainly, if you must wash your jeans – and most of us will recognise the need to do so at least once in a while – experts argue ardently that even here there are some definite dos and don’ts, even if they don’t necessary all agree. Some say jeans should only be washed inside out: this exposes only the softer weave of the inside of the jeans to friction against the washing machine drum, sparing excessive wear to the outer, visible side. Some even recommend washing them right side out inside an old pillow case. Your jeans should be washed with as little other clothing as possible, on a short cycle, and using a minimum amount of bleaching agent-free washing powder (or even a small amount of mild shampoo). Despite the standard “wash at 60°” label, wash them on as cold a setting as possible.

Unless your jeans are Sanforised – a process developed in 1930 by one Sanford Cluett, which reduces shrinkage to almost negligible levels – dry denim will shrink by up to two inches in the waist and three in the leg once washed. Hence the shop staff’s advice to buy big. Shrinkage will continue for the first few washes too. Before making any permanent alterations to dry denim you also need to allow for “natural” shortening, which occurs through the gathering of creases at the crotch and knees. Once washing is done, your jeans should be removed from the machine straight away, turned back the right way for drying, shaken flat and pulled back into shape while still damp – at which point shrinkage can be countered to some extent with a good tug – and left to dry unfolded and naturally. No tumble dryers please.

Care for your jeans could, in other words, become a full-time job. Even repairs are an issue. Denim should be repaired only with a patch of the same kind (dry with dry, pre-washed with pre-washed), so as to avoid a crinkling effect when you next wash them. As for darning: you should – and, naturally, you already knew this – use a cross-weaving of not one but two shades of blue thread that together match as closely as possible the blue of your denims.

Yes, you can bet cowboys didn’t have this much trouble. It’s tempting to believe they would have found such denim care rules verging on the ridiculous. They’d have chucked their jeans in their washing machine – if they’d have had one – as and when was required. And they’d have focused their energies on wrangling, hustling, gun fighting, or robbing trains. And, no doubt, they’d have looked extremely stylish while doing so.