The Summer Suit Guide: How To Dress Well Without Melting

There comes a time in every man’s life when he has to wear a suit, regardless of the temperature. Be it a high-summer wedding, a work event with no air con, or a sweltering day at the races, some occasions demand tailoring. But that doesn’t mean you must suffer through it in sweat-drenched silence.

The key to staying cool without sacrificing style is knowing your fabrics, loosening your fits, and confidently embracing the art of summer suiting. Here’s how to do it properly.

The Right Fabric is Everything

When it comes to summer tailoring, your choice of fabric will make or break the experience. Heavier wools, synthetic blends and anything lined with plastic-based materials will leave you stewing by lunchtime. Instead, go for natural, breathable fabrics that wick moisture, allow airflow and drape with ease.

Linen is a summer classic – crisp, airy and with that soft crumple that screams effortless style. Yes, it creases, but that’s part of the charm. If you want less wrinkling, opt for a linen blend incorporating cotton or silk to give a slightly smoother, more structured finish.

Tropical-weight wool is a lesser-known gem. Woven from finer fibres with an open weave, it offers the breathability of cotton but the elegance and drape of traditional suiting. Perfect for formal events where you still want to keep your cool—literally and figuratively.

Cotton suits work well too, especially in brushed or stretch blends. They’re a little more casual and prone to losing shape over time, but they look great in relaxed colours like stone or dusty olive.

Finally, seersucker—the puckered cotton favoured by the style set for its texture and cooling properties. Bonus points if you’re attending something Southern or seaside.

Pro Tip: When shopping, pay attention to the lining. Fully lined suits tend to trap heat. Look for half-lined or unlined jackets, which reduce bulk and let the garment breathe.

Embrace The Drape

Summer suiting is all about ease. Stiff shoulders, strong chest canvassing and razor-sharp creases might impress indoors, but in 30°C heat they’ll make you feel like you’re in fancy armour.

Instead, go for unstructured tailoring – think soft shoulders, minimal padding and jackets that move with your body. This approach gives a natural silhouette and feels much less restrictive, especially when paired with pants that aren’t vacuum-packed to your thighs.

Trousers should sit comfortably around your waist (drawstring or side-adjusters are your friend), with a relaxed thigh and a gentle taper toward the ankle. Cropped hems or a single break bring a contemporary touch and improve air circulation.

This approach doesn’t mean sloppy. You can still look razor-sharp in soft tailoring – you just won’t be sweating through your undershirt to achieve it.

Shirt vs. No Shirt

The traditional shirt-and-tie combo isn’t always necessary—or even advisable—when it’s over 30°C. If the dress code allows, switch things up with breathable alternatives that look smart without overheating you.

Knitted polos are one of the best options. They offer structure around the collar, a clean fit through the body, and just enough retro charm to pair beautifully with modern suiting. Look for cotton or cotton-silk blends in muted colours and open weaves so you can feel the cooling breeze against your skin.

Grandad-collar shirts and band-collar styles bridge the gap between formal and informal. They have the clean lines of a traditional shirt but feel lighter and more modern, especially in cotton poplin, chambray or linen.

For more laid-back events, a Cuban-collar shirt adds texture and breathability. Linen versions with subtle prints can give your suit visual interest without straying into vacation wear.

When you do need a proper shirt—say, for a formal wedding or client-facing meeting—pick one in lightweight poplin, cotton voile or a zephyr weave. They’re soft, airy and fit neatly under your jacket.

If you’re prone to sweating, try a sweat-absorbing undershirt designed to wick moisture away without adding bulk. Modern versions are cut to disappear under your shirt and work like hidden armour in high-heat situations.

Smart Summer Footwear

Footwear is often an afterthought, but it can drastically change how comfortable – and polished – you feel in a summer suit.

Suede loafers are a perennial warm-weather staple. They’re breathable, mould to your feet, and strike the perfect balance between formal and relaxed. For versatility, opt for a tan or chocolate shade, or go lighter (stone, taupe) if you’re wearing pastel tailoring.

Unlined derbies or minimal leather lace-ups can also work, especially for office settings. Look for thin leather soles or flexible rubber that won’t trap heat. Avoid chunky soles or heavy brogues – they’re best left for colder months.

Minimal sneakers in white leather can pair surprisingly well with soft tailoring, particularly if the suit is cotton, linen or a more relaxed silhouette. To maintain the balance, keep them clean and scuff-free.

No-show socks are essential. They stop feet from overheating and maintain a clean, ankle-baring silhouette without sacrificing comfort or hygiene.

Suit the Occasion

Work

Office dress codes may vary, but in hot weather, you need to balance professionalism with practicality. Stick to breathable fabrics like tropical wool or cotton-linen blends in muted tones – navy, light grey, olive or beige.

Pair your suit with a soft polo or open-collar shirt and swap your tie for a pocket square to keep things relaxed but considered.

Suede loafers or slim derbies keep you grounded in business territory. Avoid anything overly casual, like T-shirts or sneakers, unless you work in the creative industries.

Weddings

Here’s where you can play a little. Summer weddings are the perfect chance to experiment with colour, texture and relaxed fits. Pastel suits (think dusty pink, light blue, mint or stone) work beautifully against sunlit backdrops. Linen or seersucker are the go-to fabrics.

Cuban-collar shirts under blazers offer just the right amount of formality for outdoor ceremonies. If it’s a more traditional affair, keep the shirt classic but consider swapping the silk tie for a knitted or woven one. It adds personality without looking stuffy.

Depending on the formality, footwear can range from suede loafers to unlined monk straps. Finish with lightweight accessories—think linen pocket squares, tortoiseshell sunglasses and woven belts.

Smart Casual

Soft tailoring comes into its own here. Combine an unstructured blazer with drawstring trousers or pleated chinos in tonal colours. Pair with a relaxed open-collar shirt or a quality T-shirt in jersey cotton.

Here, footwear is flexible: white leather sneakers, suede espadrilles or desert boots all work depending on the event. Use subtle texture – waffle knits, pique polos, slub linen – to keep the outfit visually interesting without veering into try-hard territory.

Styling Tips to Beat the Heat

One of the simplest ways to stay cool is to stick to lighter colours. Pale greys, soft blues, off-whites and earthy neutrals reflect heat far better than darker tones, and they also happen to look particularly sharp in summer light. Not only will they make you feel cooler, they’ll give your outfit an effortless seasonal lift.

Where appropriate, lose the tie. An open-collar shirt can look just as put-together when the fit and fabrics are right. If you do need a tie, go for lighter materials—like cotton, linen, or silk knit—that don’t feel oppressive or overly formal.

Learn to embrace creasing. Linen suits will wrinkle—that’s part of the look. A few well-placed creases add personality and signal that you’re dressing for the climate, not the boardroom.

Roll your sleeves, open your collar, or unbutton your jacket when appropriate. These micro-adjustments not only cool you down but also make your outfit feel lived-in and relaxed. The key is confidence – if you own the look, it doesn’t matter if it’s a little undone.

Avoid over-accessorising. Heavy watches, pocket chains or thick belts can add heat and bulk. Instead, go for lightweight accessories: woven belts, slim bracelets or even fabric-strapped watches.